Dondurma: The stretchy, chewy ice-cream that never drips
Dondurma: The Unique Ice-Cream That Defies Gravity
Dondurma – While ice creams worldwide come in countless forms, Turkey’s Maraş dondurma stands apart. Unlike American-style versions, which are rich and smooth, or Italian gelato, which is denser and slower-churned, this dessert boasts an unusual texture. It’s neither soft nor melting—it’s stretchy, almost like taffy, and holds its shape even in warm weather. The secret lies in an ingredient unique to Turkey: salep, a flour derived from the orchid Dactylorhiza romana.
Known for its resilience, dondurma is a staple in Turkish culture, particularly in the south-central Kahramanmaraş region. The region’s name itself hints at its significance, as the tradition dates back centuries. Salep, ground from the plant’s bulb, is the key to its elasticity. Combined with milk, beet sugar, and a touch of mastic resin, it creates a frozen treat that defies conventional expectations. This blend gives dondurma its signature chewiness and thick consistency, making it a favorite among locals and visitors alike.
The Art of the Street Vendor
For many, the first encounter with dondurma is through the lively antics of street vendors. In places like Istanbul’s İstiklal Avenue or Ortaköy Square, these vendors wear traditional embroidered waistcoats and red fezes, costumes rooted in Kahramanmaraş’s heritage. Their performance is as much about showmanship as it is about serving dessert. Using long metal rods, they manipulate the dondurma like a magician’s trick, stretching it into spirals and flipping it mid-air to captivate onlookers.
The process is mesmerizing. Vendors work with the frozen treat as if it were dough, twisting and shaping it with practiced ease. The result is a playful spectacle, where the ice cream becomes a game of skill and charm. Customers are drawn into this dance, watching as the vendor’s rod dangles the treat, only to snatch it back and present it with a flourish. This interactive experience is part of what makes dondurma memorable, blending taste with entertainment.
A Modern Twist on Tradition
While street vendors keep the legacy alive, some purists prefer the refined approach of artisanal shops. Serdar Kemahlı, founder of Serez Gurme Dondurma, discovered this passion during a visit to a coastal town in Turkey. At the time, he was jobless but captivated by a long line of people waiting for dondurma. “The adults wore the expressions of children on their faces,” he recalls. “But the ice creams in their hands were vibrant colors that no real fruit or nut could produce.” This moment sparked his journey to revive the dessert’s traditional essence with a contemporary twist.
After working in the sandwich industry, Kemahlı dedicated over a year to perfecting his recipe. He focused on using natural ingredients, avoiding artificial additives. Today, his shop in Caddebostan, a seaside neighborhood in Istanbul’s Asian district, offers a range of flavors. The most popular is pistachio, a nod to Turkey’s status as a major producer of the nut. Other options include Madagascar vanilla, chocolate, walnut, Bodrum mandarin, and sour cherry—each crafted with care and authenticity.
Kemahlı emphasizes that his dondurma is not just about texture. “It’s robust yet creamy, smooth and silky but without a hint of iciness,” he says. The higher melting point, thanks to salep’s properties, allows it to be served at a warmer temperature than standard ice cream. This creates a more intense flavor experience, as the sweetness and richness linger longer on the palate.
The Science of Salep
Salep’s magic isn’t just in its taste—it’s in its molecular structure. “What makes salep so valuable is a molecule it contains called glucomannan,” Kemahlı explains. “One gram of glucomannan can bind two hundred times its own weight in water. It is one of the most extraordinary water-binding molecules in nature.” As an emulsifier and thickener, glucomannan transforms the texture of dondurma, giving it that distinctive chewiness.
Historically, salep has been used in Turkish cuisine for centuries. Beyond dondurma, it’s a key ingredient in traditional drinks and sweets. At Serez Gurme Dondurma, the plant’s benefits extend to its signature cups. A sprinkle of cinnamon enhances the flavor, adding warmth to the creamy vanilla base. The combination is as sweet and comforting as a bowl of thick hot chocolate, yet it carries the essence of a frozen dessert.
The journey from field to fork is steeped in tradition. Salep is harvested from wild orchids in Turkey’s mountains, where the plant thrives in the region’s unique climate. The bulb is dried and ground into a fine powder, which is then blended with other ingredients. This process requires precision, ensuring the final product retains its firm yet flexible texture. The result is a dessert that not only satisfies the palate but also tells a story of cultural heritage.
For those who prefer a more refined experience, the street vendors’ performances might be too whimsical. Artisanal shops like Serez Gurme Dondurma offer a more controlled environment, where the focus is on flavor and quality. Yet, the charm of the traditional vendors remains undeniable. Their craft, passed down through generations, is a living testament to the joy of dondurma. Whether you’re drawn to the spectacle or the taste, this frozen treat is more than just dessert—it’s a piece of Turkey’s history, wrapped in a cloud of sweetness.
